The Dunes of Merzouga

Located in eastern Morocco, on the edge of the Erg Chebbi dunes, the dunes of Merzouga is the country’s gateway to the Sahara Desert. Within its quaint borders and the multitude of riads, cafes, and hotels, it attracts thousands of tourists who clear its sand paths on camels and in 4×4s, living the Sahara experience they have always dreamed of, from days of trekking through the dunes to nights spent in nomad-style tents, warm around a campfire, almost seduced by the sounds of gnaoua all night long. Besides being a strategic stop for whoever wants to visit the Erg Chebbi dunes, Merzouga holds other tourist attractions: the sacred komp tree, the abundant bird life, and the lake of Merzouga and its pink flamingos are part of an unusual image for the desert. The village is inhabited by a Berber-speaking Arab tribe, the Idir, who had settled in the region centuries ago. Also, the village is in the same location where, in December 1942, a Lieutenant Colonel of the US Army landed near the oasis after being shot down on a reconnaissance mission without being able to find his way. He was later rescued by a local.

In informal environments, the village is also called M’hamid el Ghizlane. The reason is that both towns were the last ones where the caravans made their last stop before entering the desert on their way to rest at the other end of the Sahara, the town of Tombouctou. From there, a few kilometers further south, camel caravans left for the rest of the southern towns of Ouzina, Jdaid, Bougafer, or Taous, whose daily market was in the village. Today, these villages are mainly explored by 4×4. Even if they do not have camps to spend the night, they are places where the traveler can immerse himself in the rhythm of the Saharans while enjoying the ancient lifestyle that remains in the area.

Geographical Overview of Erg Chebbi

The Erg Chebbi Sand Dunes are the first stop for most tourists who venture into the Sahara desert for the first time. Situated on the edge of the Moroccan Sahara 10 km from the town of Merzouga, these are a series of majestic crescent-shaped dunes, which reach heights of 150 meters to 200 meters. Unlike the Iranian and Gulf States deserts, Africa does not have endless empty sand seas; here it is fortification and defensive structures such as the Kasbahs that are built of mud and surrounded by fields of date palms and rich orchards in a fragile oasis system, that provide the contrast with the clear blue sky, the delicate colors of the sand and, against the late afternoon light, the burned ochre walls of the Kasbahs. The effect of these contrasts offered by the irregularities of the landscape, the colors, and the light, contrast with the beauty of the dunes themselves, with their moveable crests, constantly redrawn by the winds from all directions.

The dunes, which are the highest in Morocco stretch some 25 km and more than 7 km wide. They are huge mounds of very fine, alabaster-colored, soft, hot sand, moving at a speed of 1 meter to 2 meters a year and overlaid here and there by a thin carpet of pebbles. The story of the Moroccan desert is still being written and at Merzouga you will find the starting point for taking desert excursions. You can follow these excursions either by 4×4 or camels for just a few hours, a day, 2 or 3 days or longer, and they can be done along the huge dune mass of Erg Chebbi or the surrounding area, through the rugged relics of nomadic Berber tribes. You can also spend the night in Berber-style tents, either in the dunes or at a few destinations close to the dunes.

 Cultural Significance of the Dunes

For the Berber and Arabic cultures that have inhabited the Merzouga region for thousands of years, the Sahara is not the forbidding sunbaked place or exotic wilderness that it represents for many of its visitors. Rather, it is a home — a place deeply rooted in the lives of the people who share a spiritual bond with it. The mountains, valleys, and dunes of the Merzouga region provide more to its inhabitants than the beauty and wonderment it offers to visitors — they play an important role in the life and survival of the desert nomad. The Sahara desert and the dunes of Merzouga create an environment that supports the generation of sufficient crops and livestock to survive semi nomadism or the nomadic lifestyle completely. Although Merzouga is known for its dunes, the surrounding region has some of the most rugged and at times inhospitable mountains and semi desert plateaus found within the borders of Morocco. These places provide some of the essential resources needed by the peoples of Merzouga. The mountains are home to the forests used for nuts, firewood, and lumber as well as the steep rocky cliffs and bluffs where the Medina and Barbary macques find refuge. Surrounding the mountains are the plateaus and valleys that during rainy seasons become critical to the survival of the desert peoples. These areas in non-drought years create grasslands that are home to flora while attracting migratory herd animals. The people raise their few domesticated animals then move on maximizing the use of nature’s bounty. The most important animal used by the Berber and Arabic cultures of the Merzouga area is the camel.

Activities in Merzouga

Situated in southeastern Morocco, the small village of Merzouga is remarkably an access point for venture into the Saharan high dunes of Erg Chebbi, but an attraction on its own as well. The two kilometers long and up to 150 meters high dunes are apparently the highest in the Sahara, and form a striking view when melding into reflection of colors of sunrise and sunset.

Camel Treks

Most comfortable way to travel in silent breeze of the Sahara is on the back of a camel. The dromedaries are native of the area and have gone through centuries of natural selection. A camel is not a horse, and lacks a certain kindness, but the pace of a camel walk is like motion of a floating ball, very pleasant after long hiking trips. Camel trekking is offered in variety of itineraries; from a few hours trek watching the sunset at a nearby sand dune, to multi days trek for exploring the secrets of the Sahara. The guide will take care about everything; trek includes overnight stay in Berber camp, desert meals, tent, and of course, the camel for you. Local tribesmen will take care of the camp, heat the “Berber pizza” to eat while listening the Berber drums music, and watch the stars.

Sandboarding

For action sports lovers, the dunes of Merzouga are a playground for sandboarding. Grab a board and off you go to race, jump and carve the dune faces. It is a cousin of snowboarding, with different conditions, in a wet surface but getting very hot after some hours.

Stargazing Experiences

One of the hardest, and often simplest things to enjoy at Merzouga, is the starry night. You don’t have to go or arrange anything, just lay down the sand, and look at the nighttime sky. Perhaps it will not be the most colorful, but the least light polluted, the milky way will stand out, just like dozens of meteors, shooting stars.

Photography Opportunities

Sense of sneakers’ stories about nomadic life of Berbers in the Sahara. In the desert, they inhabit colored tents, growing camel herds, living in harmony with the hostile sandy environment. You can’t miss to reflect colors of the moment in your pictures, to record the swinging shift of shadows.

• Camel Treks

With Merzouga located directly in front of the most beautiful sand dunes, camel treks are one of the main activities to do here. These camel trekking offers you the chance to sleep in desert tents or sometimes under the stars. It is a complete change of pace compared to the other travelers and a nice way to experience this stunning area. There are two basic day tours you can do with a camel. Short rides last about two hours and take you to a viewpoint on the dunes to enjoy the sunset. Some sunset treks watch the sun set over the dunes and see the sun rise the next morning. Longer travel options besides the standard one-day trek can last from two days to several weeks and lead to other desert villages. This way you meet the Berber ethnic group and get to know their language and customs.

Camel treks are a good option for everyone who wants to experience the feeling of crossing the desert on a camel. Many providers also offer sunrise treks, where you take beautiful pictures of the sand dunes while they are still illuminated by the orange color of the early sun. Camel trekking was a special experience. We took the camel at sunset and arrived in a Berber tent camp. The tents are furnished just like in Morocco except for the fact that our mattress and bedding were placed on the sandy ground instead of on a smooth floor. Mainly fire and the nights at desert temperatures made it a rather uncomfortable night.

•  Sandboarding

When it comes to sandboarding, there are several companies to choose from, all geared up and ready to go. Nevertheless, to ensure you’ve got the right choice, it’s best to take advice from local friends. If you’re a complete novice, joining your tour group for the day is probably recommended, as it offers an excellent chance for practice. On the other hand, if you’re confident about your sandboarding skills, most companies will allow you to rent sandboards for the day for a much cheaper price. This gives you much more flexibility to explore the dunes at your own pace and work out what kind of sandboarding you want to do. Sandboarding, like snowboarding, is performed on a board, but in the absence of snow, people prefer to enjoy the activity on the sand. It’s one of the most popular activities in the area and a must-do in your desert trip. In Merzouga, you can enjoy a half-day or full-day adventure on some of the highest dunes, either as part of a guided tour or, if you’re adventurous, by yourself. Sandboarding can be done all year round, especially during summer when the sand is very soft and the weather is warm. However, if you decide to rent the boards, you’ll be required to pay a deposit. Most sandboarders take advantage of the nearby dunes at Erg Chebbi. Indoors for solo travelers can enjoy the experience in the dunes of Erg Chebbi, just half an hour’s drive around Merzouga. It’s impossible to catch some air on a small sandboard – however, it’s good practice to refine your skills before getting to the dunes of Erg Chebbi. Other fun activities taking place here include biking and go-karting.

• Stargazing Experiences

The Sahara Desert is one of the best places on the planet to witness the night sky and the stars. The simple fact that there is no light pollution on the horizon makes stargazing in the Dunes of Merzouga an experience that is hard to beat anywhere else. The closest town or village is far away, so even the faintest stars are visible. That’s when you should stand on top of the dunes and admire some of the most beautiful landscapes you will ever see. The blue colors of twilight are stunning, but dark skies during the night are unforgettable. Activities must stop around sunset, returning to the camp or to the hotel. You should consider stargazing in Merzouga after eating dinner – you cannot miss special Berber dinner experiences. After your meal, be sure to go out and explore the dunes where the camp is located. Listen to the silence and enjoy a moment of solitude surrounded by Saharan sand dunes illuminated by the moonlight.

Photography Opportunities

The dunes of Merzouga collectively form a magnificent backdrop, and make Merzouga a world-famous destination for photographers. It’s not only the great golden dunes pitching upward to the bright blue sky, or the night sky filled with twinkling stars, that inspires so many photographers; there are unique shops with colorful Berber carpets, or the places to simply sit and watch a camel caravan walk in the distance, or traditional Berber tents perched between dunes that add to the excitement. It’s the people and culture, and what they do, that creates some of the most memorable shots of all.

There seem to be endless patterns we humans create on the Sahara that can easily fill your digital storage for days. Perhaps you will fall in love with how camels move through the sand dunes, like little ships at sea. Watch the Berbers easily balance large burdened textiles on their heads as they stroll through the desert. Photographers like to visit a small village, situated right at the edge of the dunes, to capture little kids flying kites and putting up huge smiles, while they frolic with sand at their feet. Come sunset, the dunes keep changing in hues, and soak you in a golden glow, while you cleanse yourself and your camera at the base of the giant dune that stands tall, like a magnificent castle putting up a golden shimmery facade.

The diversity of sand dunes is what makes Merzouga different from all other destinations in the Sahara. Travel outside the little sleepy town and trek a little distance towards the east, there stretch the Chigaga Dunes that are magnificent in their loneliness. Reaching the top of the dunes, one must walk fast because of the dunes constantly reshaping themselves while the sun casts shadows that contour the dunes differently through the day. Right from sunrise when they break the horizon, to sunset when they melt into the hot sand, the dunes are a photographer’s paradise like none before.

Accommodation Options in Merzouga

The small settlement of Merzouga has grown exponentially in modern times serving essentially as a desert stopover with abundant lodging possibilities: luxurious hotels with swimming pool, comfortable camp lodges with Berber architecture and, of course, traditional desert camps, which are the traditional tented Berber villages scattered around the dunes, just what every visitor is looking for in terms of authenticity. Most visitors spend one or two nights at these desert camps and return to Merzouga for their desert holiday.

5.1. Luxury Camps

If you are looking for a unique experience in the Sahara, do it among the magic dunes of Erg Chebbi sleeping at one of these luxurious desert glampings. Well-known for their best service and comfort, these tented lodges create such a unique experience that you may never want to leave. Most of them have been recently built with the best and most exquisite style conserving originality and authenticity. Amazing top services, gourmet cuisine, carefully designed tents for both families and couples looking for romance, private showers and toilets, complete furniture in the tents, private dinners, and special activities, all have made these luxury desert camps become known as among the best in the world.

5.2. Budget Lodging

If you are on a budget and looking for cheap accommodation in Merzouga and not so worried about services, you will find plenty of local guesthouses or cheap hotels.

5.3. Traditional Berber Camps

Are you looking for the real Berber experience? Come and sleep in one of those traditional desert camps built with natural local materials which have been used by the Berbers for centuries. Such unique and traditional camps located in the middle of the desert, far from the city, offer a totally new and unique cultural experience. Watch the spectacular starry sky night after night, hike or ride back to your camp in the afternoon from an amazing sunrise viewpoint, learn about desert life, play local games and music at night, visit nearby nomads, or ride a camel for a couple of hours.

• Luxury Camps

Merzouga boasts many hotels and riads but offers more for those who want to spend the night in the desert dunes. Luxury camps have sprung up inside and outside the dunes in the past decade, boasting full bathrooms, lighting, fancy décor, plush bedding, and gourmet cuisine. These luxurious tented camps immerse visitors in the desert experience, but with some of the creature comforts of home. Most removable, modular luxury camps and tents boast king-size beds with crisp white linens and en suite bathrooms with flushing toilets.

The Burj Desert Camp is an extravagant camp near the Moroccan border, with lavish Moroccan-style tents and a central area for relaxing. The camp puts on a sufficient number of activities that it works best as a resort-type experience for visitors more interested in relaxation than exploration of the surrounding area or the unique chott. Most luxury dune camps can arrange daytime exploration of the Erg, but they do charge extra. Depending on the night you stay, you may not have the place to yourself as you would with one of the modular camps that spend the night elsewhere.

Several groups have set up fixed-camp luxury options in the Erg, each offering unique experiences that require planning for overnight trips out of Merzouga. Since the roaring Dunes increase the magic of a night in the desert, there is a safety consciousness for activities like dune driving. While some also offer activities that push the limits in the Erg or elsewhere, others focus on local expertise.

• Budget Lodging

For hardy solo travelers on tight budgets, Merzouga village has basic, spare hotels and also budget guesthouses. Lush garden auberges near Merzouga with private rooms are available, and you could nap on their shaded patio hammock. Safety Note: Tourists in Merzouga were never harassed before, but that was before tourists stopped coming when most who had visited had lunch at one of the few cafes or restaurants on the village’s main street. With other tourists returning, the town is slowly coming back to life.

Some hotels are allegedly dirty, but cheapish options look interesting if you don’t know how to pray so they would get you to the dunes earlier or wouldn’t ask you to pay for early breakfast before prayers. A little further down is another option. It gets good reviews, but who knows if that’s by someone who eats in cheap Moroccan dives? If voluntourism is your thing, one hotel informs that they are doing their best to help the local people and their children and to make a better life for them. You may find out by spending on programs for local projects above Merzouga Village. And go tubing down the river after dinner and games at nearby cafes or hotels to lend a hand where needed.

• Traditional Berber Camps

Preserving the architectural prize for heritage, these camps give visitors a more immersive experience, where nomadic life is relived and snapshots not imagined. Designated as “camps traditionnels,” they offer all amenities, but it is the traditional decor, the typical furniture, and the animated atmosphere that distinguish them. Let us point out to the skeptics that these traditional Berber camps have little in common with the arranged places in the vicinity of the dunes that offer no camping in the desert in the true sense of the word. Oozing authenticity, these Berber camps located deeper in the dunes ensure that your nights under the stars remain unforgettable. Here, you will not experience the atmosphere of a youth hostel. You might even think these camps have been set up for no one. The rising or setting sun, the reflections on the grains of sand, the shadows and colors have, it is true, something bewitching that makes you want to forget the daily questions and simply enjoy. Apart from the quiet moment, the excursion in camel or 4×4, the evening animated after the dinner around the campfire, is it worth spending a night in a traditional Berber camp, the glamorous side of these organized excursions?

Sincere, open, traditional Berber camps allow visitors to have real exchanges with the nomadic families who knew how to adapt to the daily tourism of mass. You will take milked cereals with the women or men mending goatskins for the chadidjies sold in shops or by the road, and tell them how one manages to live in such an environment. With so many beautiful pictures, isn’t one evening enough? You will leave with the need to touch and know everything that makes the life of these families and to return to the camp as soon as the impossible journey in time is reserved.

Travel Tips for Visiting Merzouga

After learning about all the attractions in Merzouga, as well as the best places to stay in Merzouga, it’s time for practical tips! You probably want to know how to get to Merzouga, what the best time to visit is, what to pack, what to wear, and what the local etiquette is. Don’t worry, we’ve added all these tips to this travel guide to help you figure it out.

6.1. Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Merzouga is during spring, when the weather is cool, but warm enough to explore the dunes without freezing. In summer, the days are extremely hot, which can make it quite difficult to explore the desert. However, the nights are pleasant, and you can enjoy the stars! If you don’t mind the heat, this is the best time to camp in the dunes, as a lot of Berbers come to do so. Fall is also a good time to go.

Before heading to Merzouga, keep in mind that the nights are very cold in winter and that dust storms are frequent during that period, so sleeping in a tent will not be a pleasant experience. Although different companies arrange overnight excursions in the desert, we advise against doing that at this time of year.

6.2. What to Pack

The warm clothes you will need at some point in the visit will depend on the time of year. During the day, the heat can be intense even in winter, especially in July and August, so you will need summer clothes, sunscreen, and a hat to protect you from the sun. Although at night it can be very cold, you will not need a heavy jacket either (just something warm). If you can afford to take them with you, it is preferable to hire an excursion in the desert that includes sleeping in a luxury tent with its own bathroom.

6.3. Local Etiquette

Regarding the local etiquette regarding the saharaui women, the contradictory and sexist clothing habits of Moroccan women must be taken into account. Although they do not use them in the desert, when they go to visit some tourist attractions, the berber women of the desert usually wear colorful clothing and decoration, and the saharaui women veils and black fabrics, and it is advisable to wear comfortable but not too short shorts or skirts.

• Best Time to Visit

Perhaps the most important factor related to your itinerary planning is deciding the right time for you to visit Merzouga, and by extension the rest of the Moroccan desert region. This is entirely dependent on your priorities for the trip. Morocco sees millions of visitors each year. Most come during the peak tourist season in Northern Morocco between April and November. Yet only an infinitesimal fraction venture down to the deserts of the south. For these few who do make the journey, they find themselves in a pocket of tranquillity, a stark contrast to the crowds around Fes and Marrakech, where the only noise is the soft lapping of waves against the shore, the wind whispering its secrets into your ear and the cries of occasional birds overhead. The high season in the desert region, at least as far as weather is concerned, is between November and February. These cooler months are ideal for exploring the desert’s magnificent mountain ranges, ancient kasbahs and 1000-year-old towns filled with history and walking along the beaches of the Atlantic Coast. Temperatures during the day hover between 15 and 25ºC – warm but not boiling hot, although expect near freezing temperatures at night in the higher elevations, all particularly at January’s end when cold waves roll in from the North.

Spring and autumn are the best times to go camel trekking into the dunes. Sand temperatures aren’t scorching yet but nighttime heat stress still isn’t life-threatening. For the more adventurous, winter months are also possible, in a spartan way of course. You shouldn’t expect any service or equipment for your trek. The only people who travel into the Merzouga desert region at this time are Moroccan tribesmen, the nomadic Bedouins who live in the region, and who intend to cross into Algeria and so for a brief, any probably snowy, Saharan interlude of their lives. The Merzouga dunes themselves are hottest in July and August, when temperatures may peak at 40ºC-deadly.

• What to Pack

In this section, we’ll list suggestions for packing, bringing the essentials and leaving behind anything unnecessary. We’ll discuss the pack philosophy as being “as light as possible, but as heavy as necessary” and suggest things that MUST NOT be forgotten.

Merzouga is located in the mountains, so even though the weather is more predictable than in other parts of the country, things can get cold. During the winter, the Sahara may even get snow or frost during the night. In addition, while the temperature is 50 – 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, it usually gets down to 0 – 30 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Therefore, it is advisable to pack thermal clothing to keep you warm once the sun sets.

It’s very important to pack as lightly as possible. It is suggested to travel with backpacks instead of roller bags, with enough clothes for 3 days and layers for both warm and cold weather. Most activities in Merzouga involve moving and having fun, but leave some relaxation time on your program to enjoy views of the dunes! Carry sunscreen and wear your swimsuit for your touristic stroll across the desert with a picnic lunch. You’ll want to get some good pictures to save the beautiful moments, so don’t forget to pack a camera too! It helps to remember that tranquility will prevail on the trip to the desert and the evenings spent in the dunes. Bring a good book, your favorite music played from a device that doesn’t require internet access, and who knows… maybe even a traveler friend to share a shisha!

On the other hand, some items are better left out of your bag so that you can enjoy the beautiful Moroccan desert atmosphere as much as possible. Avoid packing too many shoes; sandals are your best option. You’ll be walking on the sand; wearing shoes or boots is simply not a good idea. You’ll want to look great for your camel trek; don’t bother carrying dresses that can get covered in sand. Remember that you’ll be alone for most of the time once the dunes set in, so wear clothes you’re comfortable with!

• Local Etiquette

In Muslim culture, respect for custom is paramount; it is best to be as polite and formal as possible when you are in public with Moroccans. Shaking hands is common during greetings, and it is proper to follow the recipient with “Salam Alaikum” and the response “Wa Alaikum Salam”. When greeting someone for the first time in Morocco, however, it is typically best not to extend your hand to shake unless the other person does first. Note that touching is reserved for between members of the same sex and removing shoes at the entrance to a home is customary. Be cautious when standing close to someone; physical contact with opposite-sex strangers is not proper and public displays of affection are frowned upon. Dress codes can also differ. Many Moroccans are more modestly dressed compared to what you may see in western countries, and it is generally good to adopt similar attire. Casual summer clothing is acceptable, particularly in the resorts and cities. However, for men show leaving the resorts or city limits is suggested long trousers. In the Sahara and surrounding region, people may wear loose-fitting sleeveless garments. Women visitors to Morocco should take care when traveling in small towns and rural settings to wear trousers or long flowing skirts, and tops with sleeves, as may the religious tourists. Swimsuits and shorts, if worn at all, should not be worn away from the beaches. Food is eaten with the right hand only or with a fork; the left hand is reserved for other activities. Some guest homes may separate men and women during meals; and, when invited to someone’s home, desiring the whole family to join at the table is good manners. Doctors or other professionals are usually addressed by their titles, but it is not terribly offensive to jump ahead and use first names after a few encounters.

Exploring the Local Cuisine

Moroccan cuisine is in many ways its own unique fusion of flavors and techniques, blending traditional Berber, Arabic, and Mediterranean-influenced cooking. The spices used in Moroccan dishes, such as saffron, coriander, cumin, turmeric, paprika, and cinnamon, seep into the pores and taste buds. However, it is the plethora of tajines that the country is so famous for, unique stews of spiced vegetables and a variety of meats, including chicken, lamb, and fish, served on a plate and with Moroccan bread. It’s common not to find any cutlery, as these delicious meals are prepared to be eaten by hand, rolling bite-sized portions of bread, and scooping up the food.

One of the most popular tajines in Morocco is chicken with preserved lemons and olives, a dish with a distinctive taste that many travelers have a hard time imitating back home. Just be warned that restaurants generally use chicken from the freezer, so if you want to try a fresh chicken tajine made with chickens raised in the area, you should eat at your local family’s home. Marrakchí-style tajines using lamb or beef are also in many cases boiled in a thick broth that can be a little bland, which is why chicken tajine is often the less risky choice at tourist-oriented restaurants.

But, tajines aren’t the only dishes worth checking out. Of course, most restaurants in town will also serve the obligatory Moroccan favorite: couscous, a dish preceded by the tagine, which is made from crushed durum wheat that can be served with salted vegetables, chicken, lamb, or beef. However, you may be surprised to know that this dish is usually only served on Fridays in the local houses, which is why we advise you to coordinate your visit to Merzouga on that day if you want to try an authentic couscous.

TraditionalDishes

Local cuisine is an essential part of any destination. During your trip to Merzouga, you should try several delicious dishes prepared by Berber families. No meal is complete without Moroccan bread, baked in a communal oven. It is used for dipping and should accompany all meals, especially the traditional tagines, Moroccan stews that are very slowly cooked in a clay dish of the same name. Tagine fillings can be very diverse, combining meat with a variety of seasonal vegetables, dried fruits, or nuts. If you are vegetarian, you should ask for a vegetable tagine, as not all cooks are able to prepare this dish.

Another common dish in Morocco is couscous, a typical Friday meal. During Ramadan, when Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset, the diet is composed mainly of soups, with harira soup, lamb, and lentil soup being the favorites. If you visit Merzouga in the cool months, do not miss the opportunity to enjoy a pot of Berber soup, a very nutritious dish made with vegetables and a lot of spices. Moroccan salad, a raw dish made of different vegetables and sometimes olives, is a perfect accompaniment to any meat meal in summer. During your visits to the region, you will find that men drink plenty of mint tea and women drink buttermilk and goat’s milk. Do not forget to drink water to stay hydrated in the desert! Although it is not a dish, you should also mention the dried fruit and nut bag, which is a popular snack you can buy everywhere to recharge your batteries.

The Arabic flavors intoxicate from the very first moment and when you start to taste the different dishes, it is difficult to stop. The Moroccan menu focuses on spices, herbs, and stews cooked over low heat, and it has been that way for centuries. Although the recipe may vary depending on the region, it is normal to find the tajine reflected in all of them. Using different means and ways, this dish has become the hallmark of Moroccan gastronomy and soon caused the astonishment of many foreign tourists who could not resist testing it.

• Dining Options

Travelers to Merzouga may find eating in the village a bit complicated, especially if their hotel or riad does not have food available. However, there are several little restaurants and cafes serving traditional Moroccan food. These establishments usually remain open for breakfast and dinner, except in the middle of summer. Merzouga is one of the best places in Morocco to try a berber tagine and instead of paying the high prices for hotel tagines, we recommend trying one at a small local restaurant. Another local specialty is the pizzas that the inhabitants of Merzouga manufacture in their clay ovens. Do not expect the same kind of pizza as in an Italian restaurant, but a big round bread with tomato, cheese, and sometimes olives, lamb, or chicken in the center. It is cheap and delicious, and much better than the other fast food option, fried chicken!

If you are having a meal with some local friends, try the berber tradition of eating together from a big round plate with your right hand! In Merzouga, only fast food restaurants and coffee shops are open at lunchtime. They are small and do not provide a clean place or terrace to have a break, but they prepare quick meat skewers with salad, sandwiches, and fresh fries with ketchup. For breakfast, around 50% of the Moroccan men and women drinking mint tea will dip pieces of bread into a bowl of milk. Other tourists preferring to spend all their time in the desert will go back. All the hotels and camps there prepare food, but if you are doing a trekking tour, expect to eat dry bread with jam for lunch; or simple tagines with vegetables or chicken in the evening or at noon! You typically must pay extra for a trek in the desert.

Environmental Considerations

Morocco’s incredible landscapes and friendly Berber culture support increasing international tourism. For thousands of years, people have traveled to the Sahara for recreation, commerce, and epitaphs—and they continue to do so today. The same dunes that were the resort of native nomads and Arabian princes are now being commercialized by hiking and 4WD groups from all over the world. Although recent tourism began in the 1960s, it has boomed in recent years with the ease of internal travel and expansion of routes from Casablanca and Marakkech. We visited Merzouga in late November. The hotels were not particularly full, but tour groups were engaged in activities from the before-sunset camel rides to afternoon visits for tea in sketchy Berber villages.

Sustainable tourism refers to the new awareness that both good and bad effects are associated with tourism. If the region is to develop in such a way that the good effects are maximized and the negative impacts are minimized, local input is required. Local employment in the tourism industry usually does little to offset these undesirable changes. Effective programs are being developed to allow local residents to use some control over the tourism machinery that operates in the region. Development of strong ties between tour operators and the guides is encouraged. Responsible EcoTourism—travel to fragile, pristine, and usually protected areas that strives to be low-impact and small scale—was put on the map by people such as. When done properly, EcoTourism benefits local communities and environments while providing tourists with a unique educational experience. Stepping carefully, we can enjoy a trip to the Dunes of Merzouga while supporting the very culture we have come to learn about.

• Sustainable Tourism Practices

The desert landscape is often remembered as representing wildernesses untouched by human presence. But for the Berbers and other populations that have lived in, traveled through and depended on these regions for millennia, these areas have been for a long time part of their cultural landscape. Here nomadic interrelations weave the fact of the desert with myriad activities and aspects, giving rise to what is often mistakenly referred to as “the culture of the desert”. The determination to share aspects of their culture and landscape must, however, be balanced against the costs of doing so. Answers must be found to questions such as: What kinds of visitors are wanted, or unwelcome? What parts of Berber culture in these regions are to be shared with visitors? What is to be left behind closed doors? How are the negative impacts of tourism to be minimized? Hopefully, answers to questions such as these will induce the devotion to the concerns of culture and the desert landscape that is so urgently needed today.

As the natural patterns continue to change with noise pollution, more invasive tourism, it is essential that we visit the desert responsibly. People living in and around the sand dunes have chosen to open their homes to visitors, willing to share what they have, therefore showing us a new view of these historical routes and of life in the Sahara. While arriving by camel caravan is still possible, many of us pull into the dunes near Merzouga on gas guzzling diesel quads and caravans that spew out dark clouds of choking black soot as they race from one dune to another. Hot rides which are available for either the adventurous or lazy, build sand mountains, thus damaging the fragile ecosystem. Please don’t use them and if you see those who do, a respectful yet firm reminder to use the camels would not go amiss. It would also help if you visit the dunes during the off peak times when the orange and pink bursts of color after sunrise and just before sunset ensconce the sea of dunes in peaceful silence. During the daytime, the action can be rather foreign and loud.

• Conservation Efforts

Although tourism in the Dunes of Merzouga has made a significant contribution to the Moroccan economy overall, developed to new heights as part of the new government policy of the 2000s, tourism also incurs costs to nature and local communities, particularly at the management level. All tourist activities in and around areas like the Dunes of Merzouga must exist in balance with nature and be carried out responsibly with respect to sensitive ecological infrastructures. There should not be further fluctuations in natural resource availability, nor the loss of biological variety and genetic resources, nor the disruption of ecosystem composition and functions. The share of tourism in Memli and Merzouga must be put in equilibrium with more traditional livelihoods and income sources: seasonal agricultural production, limited to the cooler months of winter and low-energy demand, often rain-fed, camels, and some goats or sheep. The official government response comes in the form of protected zones in the Merzouga region involving various agencies. The efforts of the government have created protected spaces in which Northern African podor horses and the Barb horse or Barbelle are safely bred. Forum maisons for the promotion and sale of traditional Berber craftsmanship have been created. The additional involvement of local populations has led to environmental awareness campaigns about factors threatening the survival of certain animal and plant species in the Dunes of Merzouga and surrounding areas, including overgrazing, uncontrolled human trespassing, pollution, and the excessive use of firewood.

The Role of Tourism in Merzouga

Building upon the very first temporary encampments, hotel and guesthouse owners now offer all kinds of facilities to tens of thousands of domestic and foreign tourists visiting Merzouga each year. However, they have drawn the consequences of previous bad experiences both for the tourists and for themselves, and the service has gradually improved over the past few years. The inhabitants of Merzouga can now be proud of their handmade offerings, realizing that they are preserving, or redirecting the earlier migratory patterns of caravans passing through the West African desert. The town also boasts a selection of “fancier” hotels that allow access to the eastern range of dunes, the more famous and “fashionable” side. While these offer a different experience of the dunes, it comes at a price, and probably at the expense of a “genuine” and more “natural” desert experience. Merzouga is now an internationally famous tourist destination and has been helping tourism blossom in Morocco. Not only its population has been increasing, but it is also far from being exclusively Berber any longer. Not only Moroccan tourists flock there on weekends and holidays, but also foreign tourists explore the region. With time Merzouga has nevertheless changed, prospering on elitist tourism. In fact, tourism began booming in Morocco in the 90s, thanks to the increase of cheaper chartered flights, and the circulation of their occupants, who were only stopping in the main cities, pushed up prices too. The starry desert nights had become famous. Travelers wanted to discover less conventional, more exotic regions, and many were lured by the soft Berber faces appearing on magazines’ covers. While the tourist had earlier been treated as a mere episode of folkloric animation, he now become an ornament, cleverly cultivated, and even tolerated and still is today.

Personal Experiences and Stories

This chapter offers personal experiences from trips to the Merzouga dunes in the Moroccan Sahara that began in the early 1990s and continued into 2023. I was first introduced to the Saharan dunes by a friend visiting from Chicago when we rented a Land Rover to explore the valleys and gorges of the Anti-Atlas Mountains. We spent a few days in the Merzouga area and camped one night atop the tallest dune to catch a breathtaking sunset as well as sunrise. In the proceeding years, I had returned numerous times to hike and experience the dunes. I made the trip while living in the South of France and driving back to my family’s home in Chicago. As time went on and I started leading trips to Morocco for friends, my trips to Merzouga became more numerous and extended, especially after discovering a family-run hotel that was known mostly to locals.

The family had been operating a simple hotel in Merzouga village for about a decade, catering primarily to local tourism. They offered rooms in traditional adobe buildings, simple traditional meals, and horseback tours into the dunes at affordable prices. Small yet cozy, the hotel has a central courtyard filled with palm trees, bamboo furniture, and shady tents where families can relax between outings in the dunes. The family also owned several camels and offered camel treks into the dunes, where guests could also sleep in Berber tents at an incredible price. After a few days of enjoying our time at the hotel, we would trek into the sands and camp below the towering dunes for a few nights, going on camel rides and taking pictures at sunset and sunrise. Returning to the hotel, we would join the family in preparing meals and cleaning the camels before taking off on our next adventure into the desert. From our quiet days on the sand, we took off to explore the nearby rally in a loyal Land Rover and registered our friends for adventures.